A Unique Opportunity

Last Sunday, I had the unique opportunity to attend a Buddhist funeral. Champ's grandmother passed last week, and in Buddhist tradition a funeral is set the night someone dies and lasts for the next three nights and four days. The first few days consist of family gatherings, lots of food, sacred chanting by monks, and making merit ('tham bun' in Thai) to the family and ancestors. On Sunday, the third day, we got to participate in a number of ceremonies and rituals that are unique to Buddhism and Thailand.

I did not bring my camera that day, as I expected it to be rude to take pictures while people are in mourning. But I soon realized that taking pictures is expected, normal, and encouraged! Luckily, Anna had her camera with her and all of the following photos are from her!

Our day began around 10 am when Champ picked us up -- Emma, Catherine, Anna and me -- and drove us to his house just outside of Chiang Mai, near Lampoon. I must admit that I felt both nervous (wasn't it the least bit strange to bring 4 farang girls to a sad family event?) and sort of excited (how many farang get to experience something like a Buddhist funeral?). But all my fears were quickly alleviated when we entered his house and his family received us with kindness and openness. First, we were asked to light a stick of incense and say a small prayer or wish for the family. Then, we placed the incense in a large clay pot with other burning sticks. This is the first step for anyone who comes to the ceremony. Next, Champ's dad brought out tray after tray of delicious food (including sticky rice -- my favorite!) and they all smiled at us. I felt very comfortable and I was happy to know that we were not imposing. Champ explained to us that Thai funerals are sad, but there is a sense of the celebration of life as Buddhists believe in rebirth. While there was a slight somber feeling, I got the feeling as if it were Thanksgiving at home. Everyone gathered around, chatting and smiling, loving one another and sharing bountiful food. Each member of the family was involved with different aspects of the day -- cooking, organizing ceremonies, moving the casket, etc. There was just a feeling of love and warmth all around.

After we met the family, Champ was feeling a bit overwhelmed. He decided to take the four of us to the temple at which he ordained as a monk. We arrived to a beautiful complex at Wat Phra Phuttha Bath Tak Pa, which roughly translates to "The Temple of Budda's Footprint and Dried Robe." We walked around through the monks' residence houses and Champ stopped to speak to a monk with whom he had been close during his ordination a few years back. It was beautiful -- there were hundreds of little cabins in a forest. It reminded me of camp and I felt the slight pang of home sickness. We wandered into the different temples on the complex and I practiced my wai-ing. This is the practice of kneeling and bending to place your forehead on the floor, repeated 3 times. Each wai represents respect to a different 'jewel' -- the three jewels are The Buddha, The Dhamma (teachings) and The Sangha (monks and followers). You perform this wai in front of each Buddha image in each temple.

Monks' residences

                     

Emma, Catherine and Me in front of one of the temples

The blend of Buddhist and Brahmanistic/Hindu architecture and ornamentation

Wat Phra Phuttha Bath Tak Pa is an expecially sacred site as it is known for having two imprints of Buddha's foot, as well as a platform where Buddha is said to have dried his robe on the stone, both having left an imprint in the earth.

Next, Champ drove us to the top of the overlooking mountain to the temple Amphoe Pa Sang, where we had a 360 degree view of the stunning landscape.

Making the climb up the hill -- which was entirely worth the effort

Over 400 steps back down to Wat Phra Phuttha Bath Tak Pa

Ringing the gong which is used to round up the monks and laypeople

After the morning at the wats, we returned to Champ's house to experience a series of traditions and rituals. When we arrived, there were monks who began chanting as the family sat around. We were not asked to participate, but we watched from the other room. Then it came time to move the coffin from the inside of the house to the elaborately beautiful alter outside. The casket was opened and every guest and family member crowded around and placed different objects inside; small prayer cards, flowers, etc. A string was tied three times around her head, hands and feet. Everyone touched her -- there was no sense of distance or of being removed from death; no fear. Champ explained that this mentality also comes from the Buddhist tradition of karma and rebirth: we all die and go somewhere else, so there is no reason to fear death.

After the gifts, many men moved the casket to the alter which we then decorated with flowers and lights. Champ's cousins, which he calls his sisters and brothers, asked the four of us farang to help arrange flowers on the alter. I got all dirty carrying around the flowers and oases, but no one seemed to mind. Everything about the preparations was collective; each person helping out one another, the younger generations assisting the old. It was really beautiful to watch.

The incense welcoming and prayer station

The alter lit up at night -- a truly incredible sight. What a beautiful way to leave this life and start anew!

After the decorating of the alter, we had yet more food and drink in the living room. People were in and out, eating and chatting as five monks arrived to begin the different blessing ceremonies.

During the first ceremony, we sat on the ground in wai as each of the five monks said a different blessing. I practiced my meditation because I was feeling anxious (as anyone who knows me knows that I can;t sit still for very long without LOTS of effort!) We came to a part in the ceremony with which i was familiar with and I understood -- the making of merit through water offering. Everyone is sitting closely, and each person reaches forward to touch the person in front of him or her, as the person in the front fills a silver offering bowl with blessed water. A monk chants, and one must pour slowly as to last for the whole chant. This ritual has roots in animism, where the living ones give blessings and prayers for peace to the ancestor spirits through the offering of water. I witnessed this practice in Mae Chaem, and it is very common in most Buddhist rituals as making merit (paying respect) is significant to being a Buddhist. After this ceremony, the family presented the monks with gifts as a thank you for leading the blessings (another way of making merit)

We ate some more and then prepared ourselves for the next ceremony in which a monk presented a chant about a mother's love for her son. Mothers are highly respected in Buddhist tradition because as women are not allowed to ordain, the greatest merit a mother can make is to give her son to the Sangha. This chant was over an hour long and we were required to sit in wai the entire time. This was a particular challenge for me, but I'm glad I had the experience and that I pushed myself to understand something that was so foreign to me.

 The day was very long and tiring, so I was elated to come back home and crawl into bed (during a thunderstorm, which is the best!). Despite challenges in understanding the chants and rituals (as they were in Pali), I am so thankful for my opportunity to participate in such an experience. Champ was so kind to open his home to us, and I know that this is an experience that is rare and is one to be treasured and remembered.