Elephant Ride!

Yesterday, I completed one of my bucket list tasks -- riding an elephant! A big group of 20 students trekked out to Maetaman Elephant Camp, about 20 kilometers north of Chiang Mai. A guide from the camp came to pick us up at 8:30am and we got a ride out to the camp (included in the price!)

When we arrived, we were first escorted to take a river ride on a bamboo raft. We floated down the river for about 40 minutes, taking in the incredible sights of the jungle. Since it's the rainy season in Thailand, everything is lush and so green. We even saw a crocodile floating in the water! It was peaceful and quiet, and it was an amazing way to see the mountains!

After our bamboo raft ride, we were bused back up the river to the camp. We watched the elephants show off their tricks and they came to the side of the cage to meet us! It was really amazing to touch one -- they are so big and tough feeling. Their size can feel intimidating, but they are very gentle.

After the show, it was time to climb on! We were seated in two's on top of each elephant, in little baskets with ralings for safety. There was a 'driver' of sorts sitting on the elephant's head. We walked through the camp, up the mountain, an down into a valley. It started to rain, but it felt nice because it was so hot. The landscapes were breathtaking -- it seems as though the world looks that much more beautiful when you are on top of an elephant.

Elephants 'holding hands'

After the elephant ride, we arrived in a small Lisu (hill-tribe) village where we had an opportunity to buy local goods. I got a deal on a beautiful silver bracelet (90 baht, just under $3). The next leg of the journey began as we mounted carts pulled by oxen. We rode in the rickety carts until we got back to the camp, where we ate a delicious buffet lunch. The whole day cost me 650 baht, just around $20. What a deal!

Last night, the whole group of Americans plus about 10 of our new Thai friends went out for one of the St. Lawrence student's birthdays. We had a great night and I didn't get home until 4:15 am! That's the latest I've ever stayed out. I slept most of today, which was okay because it rained most of the afternoon. This evening, Champ took out KK and me to a restaurant called "Riverside," which overlooked the Ping river that runs through the center of Chiang Mai. We had him order, and I was glad because he chose delicious things! We ate a spicy shrimp soup called Tom Yum Gung, an entire steamed white fish with lemongrass and garlic, some green vegetable that has no translatable English counterpart, and of course plenty of rice. It was amazing. I must say that eating is one thing I've been doing quite well here, despite my fears of getting sick. I've adjusted remarkably well!

Tomorrow morning, we leave for Mae Chaem -- a mountain village three hours outside of Chiang Mai. We'll be staying with families in the village, and we'll be learning all sorts of cool things like traditional cooking, farming, and cotton weaving. I'll be taking my Thai language class inside of a temple! As I won't have my computer or internet, I won't be able to blog until next Saturday or Sunday so stay tuned for a nice long summary of my week's adventures in the hills!

1 Week in...

I can't believe I've already been here for a week, time seems to be whipping past me. We've done so much in just a few days that I am physically and mentally exhausted. I'm really trying to savor every moment because I know I'll regret not paying attention as my memories start to fade...

I have a Thai nickname! In Thailand, most people go by a nickname because Thai names are so long. "Skylar" is a hard name for Thai-speakers to pronounce, so now I am "Fah" (pronounced with an upward inflection!). It means 'sky,' so it's a very appropriate name!


So much has happened since my last post! In Thai class on Wednesday, we were participants in a market study of potential Thai tea exports. We got to sample four different kinds of tea and rate them; we gave feedback and voted for our favorite. The information will be used by The Tea Research Project to figure out what kinds of tea to export all over the world. I was basically in heaven given that I love tea so much!

Last night, my friend Champ took a big group of us to the night market in downtown Chiang Mai. It's mostly a place for 'farang', but it was fun regardless! There is SO much to see that it's completely overwhelming. We stopped for dinner and then walked the market for a few hours. There are so many unique and beautiful goods that are produced right here in Chiang Mai. I learned how to haggle in Thai (a very very cool new experience!) We're going back tonight because it was so much fun! I have to be careful not to blow all of my money in two nights...Here are some pictures from last night!

KK haggling for a bag

UPDATE: this post took me two sittings because I am so exhausted. Tonight at the market, I ate the most delicious snack that I've had since arriving to Thailand -- roti. I did some research and I think it's actually a version of the Indian kind of roti bread...but this was better than any bread. It's a street food sort of like a French crèpe. The vendor takes a small ball of dough made of eggs, milk, and flour, and spins it out with this crazy hand motion until it's paper thin. They fry it on a flat round griddle with butter and slice a banana for the filling. They fold the dough around the banana and it makes sort of a crispy pocket of delcious-ness. Finally, they top it with chocolate syrup. HOLY MOLY. Highlight of my night, except for the pants that I bought for our village excursion next week. We'll be leaving for Mae Chaem on Monday, and we'll be there until next Saturday. More details soon! 

Tomorrow, I'm riding an elephant!! It's also a birthday for one of the St. Lawrence students, so we're planning a big party at our favorite bar. It should be one heck of a day! I promise to take LOTS of pictures of the elephants -- I'm so excited I can barely sleep! Just kidding...

Love to everyone!!

 

Khantoke Dinner, New Friends, and Market Walks

Hello All!

Last night, the Thai Studies program (comprised of mostly American students, with a handful of other international students) went to the Chiang Mai Cultural Center for dinner. We sat on the floor and shares small tables with many different bowls of food. I learned the proper way to eat 'sticky rice:' take a small bit in your fingers, roll it into a ball, and dip it into whatever sauces are on the table. I tried a pork-tomato sauce that was reminiscent of bolognase sauce. I ate the best curry I think that I've ever had in my life, and we ate fresh fruit for dessert. Everything I tasted was new and amazing, I was in such a happy place as I tried to take it all in. I started reflecting on how even as I am forced to recognize the vast differences between parts of Thai culture and American culture, I am also amazed by the similarities. No matter where you are in the world, people, good food, and conversation is pretty constant. You just do it in a different way.

Fried chicken, pork pastry, sauteed pumpkin, green chiles and sauce, tomato pork, cabbage salad, pork curry, and dried crunchy noodles

My new friends Tim and KK and me enjoying our meal

At the Khantoke dinner, we were also fortunate enough to watch a few performances of traditional Southeastern Asian dance. I was amazed at how beautiful each dance was; the performers are so exact and precise in their movements. After the last dance, the performers invited member of the audience to get on stage and try the dancing...and I decided that it was worth a try! When else am I going to get the opportunity? It was hard, and I'm sure I looked like a fool, but it was a great way to try to understand a part of Thai culture. Here are a few pictures of the dances:

"The Rooster Dance," a tradition in some rural parts of the country

A dance whose story is similar to Romeo and Juliet

"Saw Dance"

"The Fingernail Dance"

The second group of audience members on stage trying the dance

I have made a ton of new friends here! American and Thai! My new Thai friend, Champ, studied at Pitzer College in California all last year. He is really friendly and outgoing, and he took some of us out to a bar after the Khantoke dinner. We met with some of his other Thai friends and had a great time. I didn't get home until 2am, which might be the latest I've ever stayed out since getting to college. My life at home must be pretty boring, huh?

Today was a jam-packed day, again, and I am completely exhausted! Our morning began with a test on our understanding of Southeastern Asian geography and contemporary history. I got a 61% on my quiz, which is only an indication of how much I want and need to learn this semester! We broke for lunch and then went to Thai language class with Loong Gai. We practiced how to pronounce food words, which was very helpful at the market later in the afternoon!

After class, we took a tour of the Chiang Mai Three Kings Museum in the heart of the ancient city. We walked through exhibits depicting the very beginning roots of Chiang Mai city, and learned about contemporary economic and social developments in the region.

The geographical center of ancient Chiang Mai, or "Lanna"

After the museum, we went to visit Wat Chedi Luang, which a small group of us stumbled upon on Saturday afternoon. We arrived just as the monks were summoned for 5 o'clock prayer in the temple. I was amazed to see how young some of the monks-in-training were, and I learned age is irrelevant in terms of respecting and wai-ing a monk. A novice monk, no matter how young, is a spiritual leader and deserves all of one's respect because he practices 10 precepts:

1. Refrain from killing living things
2. Refrain from stealing
3. Refrain from un-chastity (sensuality, sexuality, lust)
4. Refrain from lying
5. Refrain from taking intoxicants
6. Refrain from taking food at inappropriate times (after noon)
7. Refrain from singing, dancing, playing music or attending entertainment program
8. Refrain from wearing perfume, cosmetics and garlands
9. Refrain from sitting on high chairs and sleeping on luxurious, soft beds
10. Refrain from accepting money

After Wat Chedi Luang, we returned to Waroros Market on the river. I went searching for a specific vendor, but learned that there are two market shifts. Half of the vendors come in the morning until 5pm, and the others come after 5pm for the night market. Along the way, I bought some sohm-o ('sohm' meaning orange, and I have no idea what the 'o' means). It's a fruit sort of like an orange, but resembles white grapefruit in size and color. The flavor is mild but wonderful. I bought a package and ate it for dinner! I also tried a number of other unknown foods. I find that asking what something is is generally pointless because there is rarely a comparable food in English. I have tasted so many delicious things that are brand new, and I have learned that you eat whatever is put in front of you!

The white fruit in packages is 'sohm-o.' A-raawy! (Delicious!)

I'm looking forward to a full night's sleep, ask I have only had sporadic and interrupted rest for the past few days. No orientation until 10 am! Goodnight!

Easing into school

Here is the view from my balcony as I woke up this morning; I practiced using the panoramic function on my new camera:

I was so caught up in getting here and experiencing it all that it was sort of a jolt when I realized that I started school this week! It's orientation week for the international students, which means 2 hours of Thai Language class every day and lots of meetings with administrators and city tours and campus tours and meet'n'greet sessions with other Thai students.

Today we met with Adam Dedman, the head of our program, as well as all of the professors with whom we can take classes for this semester. Other than Thai language, I will be taking 'Buddhism and Thai Society,' 'Economic Development in Southeast Asia: The Case of Thailand and Cambodia,' 'Gender Identity and Sexuality and Transformation in Thai Society,' and 'Southeastern Asian Performance & Dance.' Each of the classes is very different, and they all seem to be with great professors. I'm happy to say that I'm excited to start classes!

At the end of August, we will be taking an excursion trip into a village called Mae Chaem. I don't have a lot of details yet, but I'll keep y'all posted.

My Thai Language class is so fun! My Porfessor's name is Gai, we call him Loong Gai. 'Loong' is a term of endearment comparable to 'uncle.' Generally, it is most respectful to greet a professor as 'Ajan' but Loong Gai says it makes him feel too old. He is very energetic and is eager to help us learn Thai. Today we practiced using our face muscles to make the sounds of the alphabet. Like many other Asian languages, intonation is a key element in Thai. I learned how to say a word with 5 different sounds, which produced 5 different meanings...very cool. It's a hard thing to get used to, and I'm nervous about messing up and offending someone! But so far in my Thai-speaking adventures, I've found that people are very appreciative of 'fa-rang' (foreigners) just putting the effort into speaking a little Thai even if it's wrong. My mouth and jaw are sore from practicing all of the different words and sounds, but I am so excited to be learning a new language!

Tonight we have a formal dinner of welcome at the Chiang Mai Cultural Center in the city!
More updates and pictures after tomorrow's city tour!

First 3 days in Thailand

Sawatdee-kha! Hello from Thailand!


So it's been a long journey getting to Chiang Mai, but I finally made it and I am settling in just fine! This country is beautiful, and the people I have met are so friendly. Thailand is called 'the land of smiles,' and I have done plenty of smiling since I arrived!

There is so much to tell, I don't even know where to start. 

Traveling went very smoothly, but it took a lot out of me. My flight from JFK was 14 hours, and I was stuck in the window seat with two Korean business men next to me who spoke no English. It was uncomfortable, but not too bad.  We flew over the ice caps (incredible!) and over thousands of miles of mountains in Russia. It was beautiful. We gained 13 hours as we headed to Seoul, which was weird because I realized how time is pretty much irrelevant when traveling internationally. We had an hour layover in Seoul before boarding for Bangkok. Our flight was short (only 5 hours) and completely empty. I laid out across a few seats and slept! We stayed overnight in Bangkok in the airport hotel, which was lovely, and flew to Chiang Mai in the morning.

The first you can feel is the heat and the humidity. I have no idea how how it has been each day, but it's pretty much unbearable. I feel my body getting slowly acclimated to the climate, but sweating profusely has is starting to become normal. It seems as if Thai people don't sweat; many people walk around in long pants and shirts or jackets, even when it is very hot out. I have learned that one reason why some Thais do this is because white skin is highly valued in parts of Thai culture. Many lotions and deodorants have skin bleach in them.

I have not had much of an appetite, but the food I have eaten is WONDERFUL. A lot of travelers have difficulties adjusting to Thai food because the ingredients are so fresh and the microbes are very different from what American bodies know. Today was the first time that I felt sick, but I expected that to be a part of the experience!

Payap Mai Kao campus is located on the outside of Chiang Mai. There is another central campus right in the heart of downtown. Today we visited that campus and walked around the markets just down the street (pictures to follow in another post!). My dorm is brand new, but there is no air-conditioning and no hot water. It sounds awful, I know, but a cold shower three times a day is a perfect way to deal with the heat! The dorm is open-air, so there are lots of bugs (nothing a camp girl can't handle, right?) and it is just as hot outside as it is inside. I have two roommates, although I have only met one of them. The past 5 days have been a holiday for the Queen's birthday, so students are given a break. My first roommate's name is Seny. She is from Chiang Mai and she is wonderful! She is half British and half Thai and she is a German major, so she's more than competent in 3 languages. She is very kind and outgoing, and she was not intimidated to come out to a bar with a group of 9 crazy Americans on our first night! I haven't yet met my second roommate, as she has not returned from holiday. I expect to meet her tomorrow!

Yesterday, a big group of American students (some from St. Lawrence and some of my new friends from other schools) and I went into the city to explore. We walked around some neighborhoods and ate lunch in a street cafe. We stumbled upon two wats (temples) that were unbelievable! I'm quickly learning a lot about Thai culture and Buddhism. Here are some interesting things I've learned:

-Your head is the most sacred part of your body, and your feet are the lowest, spiritually speaking. You must never point the bottoms of your feet towards anyone, especially not towards Buddha in a wat.  You bow your head to your elders to be polite, and towards people of status you 'wai'. 'Wai' is when you bring your hands together like in prayer (it is supposed to resemble a lotus flower) and place them so that your thumbs are by your chin, and bow your head. How far up on your face you place your hands depends on the status of the person you are wai-ing. Monks receive the highest wai, and they never wai back

-I was told that most Thais believe that foreigners smell, but they would never tell you. A lot of Thai people shower multiple times in a day and value being clean. According to one of my RA's, this is because there is a value in Thai culture of 'form over function,' meaning that it is more important for something or someone to look, feel, and act clean or kept up than it is to function properly. Thai culture is a hot-weather-culture, which means that indirect communication is valued over direct communication. Sometimes if you ask a question, a Thai person might not give you a straight answer because they are uncomfortable being addressed so directly. There are obviously exceptions to this rule, but so far I have found this to be generally true.

-I am learning a lot about 'going with the flow.' Many things in my trip so far have not gone according to plan, and the sooner I accept that they won't, the easier my life will be. I have not found it very challenging yet, but I think that I'm still in the 'honeymoon' stage. Everything is just so new and fun and exciting and different!

I'm exhausted because it's Sunday night and I begin school tomorrow. I have an orientation with the head of my program at 8:30 (the earliest I've had to get up for class since Freshman year!) and I still have a 5 page paper to write before morning. I have not yet gotten into school-mode.

I will close with some pictures of what I've seen so far, refer to Facebook for more pictures because I am updating them daily! You can click on them to see them larger.

Views from my dorm room

Our first night out, with my roommate Seny (pink shirt, white headband on the right), at a rooftop bar in downtown Chiang Mai

Different temples at Wat Chedi Luang

My new friend K.K. in a 'sung tao' (taxi cab)

Wat Chedi Luang

At the indoor market by the river

Goodnight! More soon!